Michelin-starred cuisine at The St Regis Bangkok.
By Ashima Sethi
IGNIV, which means ‘nest’ in Romansh, is the brainchild of chef and gastronome Andreas Caminada, who is celebrated in the realm of fine dining due to his extraordinary eye for detail and knack for making every plate of food look like fine art. This commitment to all facets of the dining experience has earned him several Michelin stars, three for Schloss Schauenstein in Fürstenau, Switzerland, and two each for IGNIV St. Moritz and IGNIV Bad Ragaz in the Swiss Alps.
The Bangkok outpost is the first of the IGNIV family to be located outside of Chef Andreas’ home country. However, for those who are fans of his fare, you can expect the same level of cuisine here. Menus evolve quarterly, and are seasonal, light and fresh, showcasing premium ingredients sourced internationally and locally from various purveyors across the country and from the onsite herb garden.
Helming the kitchen is Chef David Hartwig, who has worked with Chef Andreas for years, and truly understands the chef’s unique vision for the IGNIV brand. In collaboration with Sous Chef and Pastry Chef Arne Riehn, they curate an experience that combines incredible flavour with impeccable service for a memorable fine dining sharing concept.
Centering on the image of a ‘nest,’ IGNIV’s elegant dining room is inviting, boasting luxurious circular booths that reiterate the concept of shared dining. The motif of the ‘circle’ is also present in other design elements, such as the concentric gold chandeliers and oval plant fixtures. Adjacent to the main dining area sits a statement wooden bar framed by plush seating and neon lights.
Upon entering, guests are greeted by a stunning candy cart stocked with homemade treats spanning macarons, fruit jellies, brownies, and more. As the team told us, the cart acts as the ‘goodbye point’ when patrons leave, as they’re encouraged to take home goodies from the restaurant as a reminder of their evening.
Food and Drink
The tasting menu begins with ‘snacks’ and freshly made bread and butter to whet the palate. The selection comprised of a savoury ‘cornetto’ ice cream cone with kohlrabi and topped with luscious bursts of trout roe; a tender stalk of white asparagus whose subtle flavour is heightened by the addition of coriander; air bread with flavours of capsicum and jalapeño; and my personal favourite as someone who enjoys umami notes, the goat carne crudo tartelette with black garlic.
To pair with the first round of appetisers, we were served a tomato margarita complete with a chilli spiced rim that is guaranteed to win the heart of anyone who likes a brew with a little heat. Served all at once, the starters consisted of crunchy lettuce and burnt leek served on a stone smoker, which was as eye-catching as it was delightful; spring beans and green garden herbs served with a foam; and a plate of rich, creamy foie gras rillette paired with butternut squash and cicorino rosso. My favourite from the four, however, was definitely the wagyu beef roll, where tender and brilliantly-seasoned tartare-style meat is served with truffle and spring flowers, and a side of airy, crispy chips.
After refreshing our palates with a glass of a black and green tea mixture with hints of shiso and plum, we were ready for the second round of appetisers. As someone who adores seafood, it did not disappoint. The first starter was an artistically plated dish of raw trout, pickled vegetables like beetroot, and a ponzu dressing that adds a punch. The second, a plate of Hamachi in a zesty dressing paired with creamy avocado that was one of the unanimous favourites of the evening.
To pair with the mains, we were served an aromatic smoked tea with oolong, infused with seven different spices that was utterly refreshing on the palate. Also served all at once to share, the first main I tried was an elaborately plated dish of zucchini flowers, eggplant, and tomato water that was the epitome of a summer main.
Next, I tucked into a moreish potato tuile with gruyere, before trying the aged duck breast served with fresh greens and a flavourful, well-spiced sauce. As someone who truly enjoys duck as a protein, the skin was the ideal level of crispy and the meat juicy from the meticulous five-day aging process. To conclude, a bowl of succulent lamb neck and ragu topped with cucumber in a full-flavoured broth, a dish that will please those who love their meats slightly gamier.
After finishing our mains, a fragrant coffee-based refreshment paved the way for dessert. A set of four, the selection includes a coconut orb on top of refreshing cubes of aloe vera jelly; a silky pairing of cream and peaches that brought out the fruit’s floral sweetness; a Thai-inspired combination of roasted rice, pandan, and roobois tea, which was a slightly sour and very textural dish that is ideal for diners who prefer their desserts less creamy; and finally, a decadent soufflé that is light in texture yet intense in flavour.
IGNIV is currently offering a Three-course lunch sharing experience (THB 1,900++) including eight dishes, four snacks and a visit to the in-house ‘candy store.’ However for a true taste of all the talented chefs have to offer, we recommend the Four-course dinner sharing experience (THB 3,800++) that we sampled as it includes an impressive 14 dish spread, welcome snacks, and of course, IGNIV’s famous candy store to conclude the evening!
Ground floor, The St. Regis Bangkok,
159 Rajadamri Road, Bangkok, 10330
Currently open from Wednesday to Sunday from noon to 3pm for lunch and 5pm to 9pm for dinner
Tel: 02 207 7822