A list of Western fashion adopting South Asian cultural attire has drawn a jagged line between appreciation and appropriation.

Temperatures have recently flared in the global cultural climate, as the latest share of controversy falls in the realm of fashion—which tends to recycle throughout the years. Styles once sported decades prior are given a flattering upgrade to meet modern aesthetics and fits, anvoila! It becomes something entirely new, especially when borrowing from South Asian culture. In turn, the average consumer deems these so-called new trends to be of their own making. Granted, some do apologise for the cultural insensitivity (we’re looking at you, Prada), but this is, of course, nothing new. It does, however, beg the question: Is this innocent ignorance or a privileged position that degrades the true value of what is essentially Desi?

PEEVED BY PRADA

Could you ever imagine a desi mother hitting you with a high-end, overly priced chappal? A USD 1,300 Kolhapuri chappal to be exact. The most recent uproar had the Desi community at a fever pitch during the runway reveals of the latest Spring/Summer collections by the biggest names in fashion. For those who don’t already know, Prada included sandals in their latest collection that look exactly like Kolhapuri chappals. And acknowledgement for their inspiration? Nowhere to be found.

Prada’s now apologetic approach to summer wear shines a different light on cultural appropriation. To their credit, they’ve taken it a step further by proactively reaching across the aisles to create dialogue with South Asian fashion and cultural experts. But I believe comedian Vir Das, whom I had the pleasure of interviewing in a previous issue of Masala Lite, said it best on his social media handle: “If you spend 1300 dollars on Prada ripped off Kolhapuri chappals, the fee should include a visit from an Indian mother who shows up and beats you with them.”

SCANDALOUS SCANDINAVIAN SCARVES

One of the more recently well-known fashion (or cultural) faux pas that took social media by storm was triggered by a viral fashion post highlighting white women draping long scarves around their heads and shoulders, which of course, was reminiscent of dupattas. The South Asian community blasted the fashion space by calling it a cultural erasure and guilty of double standards. It was absurd that South Asian women, be it wearing a dupatta or hijab, have always been stereotyped, policed, and discriminated against while the same or similar styles sported by Western fashionistas were deemed to be “chic” or “avant-garde.”

This became the ideal example of the Eurocentrism in fashion—Western brands often exoticize or rebrand cultural garments, while dismissing or excluding the communities these so-called inspired pieces originate from. From a broader perspective, it isn’t just about the “scarf” looking like a dupatta. It is, or has been, about privilege, recognition, and the unequal treatment of cultural expression.

THE LIST IS A LONG ONE

Rewind the tape, and you’ll find long-standing issues with the West adopting fashion elements from South Asia, from bad to worse.

•Celebrities like Gwen Stefani, Selena Gomez, and eccentric Coachella festival-goers have worn bindis as an accessory, whereas in South Asia, it holds a deeper religious and cultural significance.

•The very popular henna trend used in fashion editorials in the West has cultural ties to wedding festivities and celebrations on our side of the world.

•High-end fashion houses such as Chanel, Marchesa, and Jean Paul Gaultier, have presented sari-inspired gowns and lehenga-styled skirts on runways with no mention of South Asian influence.

•The likes of Isabel Marant and Zara have used traditional Gujarati mirrorwork or Rajasthani embroidery, again, with zero recognition of their origin or local artisans who have been doing it for generations.

•Brands such as Gucci and Chanel have styled turbans on non-South Asian models, which have religious and cultural ties to Sikhism.

•Pashmina, once signifying a luxury good worthy of royalty, became duplicated, stripped of its actual value, and now the general public can’t distinguish an authentic one from a replica.

•The paisley (also known as boteh) motif, which most know from psychedelic prints, is rooted in buta pattern of Kashmiri shawls. But with its Scottish name on the global stage, Western fashion has had its origins hidden from mainstream eyes.

The lack of credit, commercialisation without benefit to the origin culture, and double standards regarding cultural expression have plagued the fashion industry for quite some time. While we call for ethical collaborations, acknowledgment, and fair representation, the West continues to fall into lapses of memory haplessly. But this is why South Asian voices all over the world are getting louder—and deservedly so.