The seven-course menu is crafted from this season’s most enticing produce.
By Ashima Sethi
I had the pleasure of visiting fine dining restaurant Mia back in March, where I tucked into chef-duo Pongcharn ‘Top’ Russell and Michelle Goh‘s last seven-course tasting menu, which was filled with premium ingredients and plenty of bold flavours.
That being said, when I received an invitation to sample their new summer seasonal menu (THB 4,550++ per person) I jumped at the opportunity, as I was curious to see what the two talented gastronomes had in store and was interested to see how they were planning to incorporate seasonal ingredients such as Australian winter truffle into their new menu.
For those who have yet to visit Mia, the restaurant sits inside a modern house just off Sukhumvit Soi 26. Inside, the dining room is stylish, boasting a dark blue and silver colour palette, arched entryways, and just the right amount of lighting to create an intimate feel. To add to the ambience, the fashionable washroom is tucked behind a shelf and is complete with a repurposed bath-cum-sofa that’s perfect for an Instagram memento of the evening.
To begin the meal, we were served an amouse-bouche of Ostra Regal oyster, where the oyster’s natural sweetness was complemented by the inclusion of shiso, yuzu, and umeboshi, also known as salted Japanese plum. The combination of sweet and tart elements created a bite that was bright and flavourful, and a memorable segue into the rest of the seafood-forward menu.
What followed was a selection of four ‘snacks’ that we were instructed to tuck into in a clockwise motion, beginning with a lobster start made with a rich choron sauce and hints of green apple and then moving onto a texturally-interesting bite comprising of carrot meringue, goats cheese, and chives; a puffed square topped with a unique capsicum jelly and filled with ultra-savoury smoked pork jowl and a fragrant romesco sauce; and finally, a morsel that’s just as appealing to the eye as it is on the palate, which combines buttery foie gras with Moscato and prune for added sweetness.
We were then served the restaurant’s signature Sourdough brioche, that marries together the crispy exterior of sourdough with the buttery inside of traditional brioche, which we enjoyed with a side of their shallot butter topped with onion ash. This was followed by another signature dish (that I was thrilled to still see on the menu), their Lobster perfume that comprises of a generous cut of lobster served above a medly of fruits and edible flowers in a refreshing tomato consomme and topped with lots of rich Oscietra caviar.
Next, was a dish that saw North Sea crab served within an ajo blanco, a cold almond and garlic soup that originates from Spain that was extremely refreshing and creamy on the palate, and the perfect complement to the natural sweetness of the crab. The dish was topped with slices of grapes that provided a slightly acidic kick to the overall plate. We then moved onto one of my favourite dishes of the evening, the Hokkaido scallop, where a scallop medallion is served on top of a flavourful black pudding, truffle, and bathed in a creamy corn emulsion. As a fan of dishes with a lot of savoury depth, this one was definitely memorable.
What followed was a dish comprising of succulent pan-roasted pollock served with raisins, capers, and a well-seasoned cauliflower-based sauce. The mellow flavour of the cauliflower provided the ideal canvas to highlight the delicate flavours of the fish, while also doing well to cut through the bolder flavours brought forth by the capers and raisins. Next was one of the restaurant’s signatures the Hay aged duck that involves dry-aging a tender duck breast in a bed of hay, herbs, and smoke to create its crispy skin and juicy meat. It was served alongside red endives, summer apples, and blackberries, all of which paired with with the natural gaminess of the duck meat.
To cleanse the palate before moving into dessert, we tucked into a tart fennel and lychee sorbet, plated with elements of dill and mascarpone. It was the ideal segue for a duo of desserts, the first being Mia’s cereal bowl, a personal favourite that pairs creamy ice cream with malted milk chocolate and corn; and the Almond financier, served with a cheesecake cream and rhubarb for a sour kick. The evening concluded with Petit fours, a selection of bites spanning dark chocolate nibbles, macarons, and more.
In addition to the sublime seven course menu, we also enjoyed the 5-glass wine pairing (THB 2,250++) that had several highlights, including a glass of Billecart-Salmon Brut Reserve NV to whet our palates, the Weiser-Künstler Trarbacher Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett 2018 that was my personal favourite glass of the evening, and the Azienda Agricola 499 Vento del Mare Moscato d’Asti to heighten each plate of dessert even further. For those who enjoy a glass of vino (or two), I highly recommend getting this pairing to complete the meal.
The restaurant also has dedicated vegetarian and vegan tasting menus (THB 3,150++) available!
Read our last review here.
30 Attha Kawi 1 (Sukhumvit Soi 26)
Open Tuesday to Sunday from 5:00 pm – 11:00 pm (last booking 8:30 pm)
Lunch Saturday & Sunday from 12:00 pm to 2:00 pm
Tel: 098 862 9659