We discover what’s cooking with Chefs Top and Michelle.
By Ashima Sethi
If you’ve yet to visit Mia, there is no time like the present.
Nestled in a stylish house just off Sukhumvit Soi 26, the restaurant was founded by talented chef-duo Pongcharn ‘Top’ Russell and Michelle Goh.
Chef Top worked abroad with culinary titans like Jason Atherton, Jun Tanaka, and Pierre Ganaire, before returning to Bangkok to become Executive Chef at Freebird. Not to mention, he’s been listed in Forbes’ 30 under 30 Asia list. Chef Michelle gained experience working with renowned names such as Anna Polyviou and Neil Perry before joining Suhring as head of the pastry section at the age of 23. Together, the chefs bring an innovative approach to fine dining and their culinary prowess truly shines through in their new set menus.
I had the pleasure of sampling the Seven-course tasting menu (THB 4,250++), which began with an amuse-bouche of Ostra Regal oyster topped with flavourful bursts of ikura. The addition of the pineapple and passionfruit heightened the suble sweetness of the oyster, making for a refreshing bite.
What followed was four appetisers that were just appealing to the eye as the palate: a crispy rice cake topped with beef tartare marinated in a spicy Sriracha mayonnaise; a thyme and cumin cracker with garden peas; a bite-sized morsel that combines beetroot and tamarind with silky foie gras; and my personal favourite, the mushroom duxelle tartlet topped with a rich hollandaise sauce and truffle shreds (so good!)
Next, we were served a sourdough brioche to enjoy with butter infused with shallots and a unique ‘onion ash,’ before moving onto another one of my favourite dishes of the evening, a cut of lobster served in a refreshing watermelon and tomato consomme with edible flowers and a generous helping of Oscietra caviar (pictured in the featured image).
What followed was another seafood-centric dish (something I was thrilled about as there are few things I enjoy more than fresh seafood) that comprised of cuts of fatty, melt-in-your-mouth bluefin tuna served over a unique crustacean jelly. The addition of lentils and avocado added some fun texture.
We then moved onto the chef’s unique take on the Japanese chawanmushi, or steamed egg custard. In Mia’s variation, generous chunks of crab, artichoke, and other delicious elements are steamed and served on a bed of onion petals. For extra indulgence, a dollop of Hokkaido Bafun uni or sea urchin sits on top, adding another layer of creaminess to an already inviting dish.
Considering how much I enjoyed the chawanmushi, I eagerly anticipated the next plate, unsure of how it was going to top its predecessor and unaware that it was going to be my top choice of the evening. We were given a plate with a filet of grilled ocean trout framed by slices of blood orange, whole almonds, a herbaceous puree, and a fennel-based sauce. The fish was cooked to perfection, its succulent flesh acting as the perfect vehicle for the intense, citrusy flavour of the blood orange. Considering the fruit is incredibly hard to find in Thailand, this dish is definitely one I’ll remember well into the future.
Next, diners are given the choice for a main between Mia’s Hay aged duck or the Hokkaido Kamui Gyu A4 wagyu Chateaubriand served with celeriac, a mushroom emulsion, and a decadent pomme soufflé (available for THB 980++ extra). I opted for the former, which comprised of a tender duck breast that has been dry-aged with care in a bed of hay alongside an array of herbs to create its crispy skin and juicy meat; roasted carrots, charred onion, pomegranate, duck neck sausage, and a thick jus to enjoy it all with.
Before we moved onto desserts, we were served a unique Kiwi G&T, a bowl of gin and kiwi elements in different forms, as a crisp, as jellies, making every spoonful of this palate cleanser an exciting, textural bite. We were then served Mia’s cereal bowl, a fun dessert that featured a quenelle of malted milk chocolate that was served atop a granola-like mixture with popcorn kernels, too. I think I can speak for most people when I say we have all tucked into a bowl of cereal for midnight snack, which I thought was a fun idea to play off. We were also given an array of petit fours.
In addition to the seven courses, we also sampled the five-glass wine pairing (THB 2,250++) including a glass of champagne to start. Some of the highlights from the pairing included a 2015 Chardonnay from Aviary Vineyards in Napa Valley; a 2019 Domaine Bruno Colin Bourgogne Rouge Pinot Noir that was paired with the duck; and the Pinot Bianco Plötzner Alto Adige DOC St. Pauls.
The restaurant also has dedicated vegetarian and vegan tasting menus (THB 3,150++) available!
30 Attha Kawi 1 (Sukhumvit Soi 26)
Open Tuesday to Sunday from 5:00 pm – 11:00 pm (last booking 8:30 pm)
Lunch Saturday & Sunday from 12:00 pm to 2:00 pm
Tel: 098 862 9659