Here’s a breakdown of the curious case of Sabyasachi’s latest resort collection.
By Mahmood Hossain
Sabyasachi Mukherjee will forever remain the standard in the Indian bridal fashion scene, trendsetting since his Bengali roots, and catering to Bollywood brides and grooms and all their wedding wardrobe desires. However, in this case, we aren’t highlighting his wedding attire prowess or his latest bridal collection, which has many admirers and fashion commentators in an uproar over a grammatical error written in Sanskrit on a dupatta. Not to mention, dare I say, his reluctance to stray away from his usual design templates.
In other words, many people have criticised the designer’s approach to his collections as monotonous and unimaginative. The latter may be a bit harsh, but it isn’t a complete lie; he continues to produce what is expected of him, which can be seen as non-evolutionary steps forward. No stranger to controversy over the years, Sabyasachi recently threw us a fascinating curveball, catching us off-guard – in a very good way – with his India Resort 2023 collection. It was out of the ordinary for this famed designer, providing the perfect deliverance of Western influence layered upon desi foundations. The strange bit? Not too many outlets are giving the collection the attention it deserves.
India Resort 2023
For most, the fluidity of the fabrics – light, airy, effortless; the chic floral prints; thrown in with a muted colour palette; make for an expected mix for a resort collection. Some may have expected out-of-the-box designs, sharper or louder contrasts, and striking details. But a resort or cruise collection is intended to paint a picture of individuals on holiday. It’s usually in warmer climates where the sun is shining bright and the lighter, easy-on-the-eyes colours and layers take precedence over abstract passion projects at couture week.
This collection, which is showcased at the designer’s first store in New York, bathed in Indian maximalist décor, is absolutely stunning. It is a beautiful amalgamation of Indian silks, Japanese organic cotton, Sabyasachi Art Foundation prints, and a unique mix of natural gemstones and rose-cut diamonds, complemented by Italian fine leather and accessories. One of the more alluring elements of the silhouettes and overall design is that it is reminiscent of old-world Hollywood and French flair and aesthetics.
Sustainability in Tow
Chic vintage lace, jewel work, white and black hues, and other rich details are presented in a practical fashion. In other words, these items can be swapped, switched, and re-worn on multiple occasions. And according to the fashion house’s official Instagram, it’s, “precious and pragmatic, wearable yet heirloom – made for the modern wardrobe where lifestyle and travel meet luxury and wonderment.” You don’t have to travel to West Village, New York to fully comprehend Sabyasachi’s approach to showcasing a homage to throwback European garb that is sustainable and fashion-forward.
With the usual high-end price tags aside, no one can question its brilliant quality and how valuable each piece will be as we go forward. Be it the splash of colours in summery hues and patterns or the uber-luxe evening wear statement layers, every item is an ideal representation of grace and a certain savoir-faire expected of a high-street metropolitan wardrobe. To view the collection, head over to Sabyasachi’s Instagram: @sabyasachiofficial