From the minds of Chefs Pongcharn Top Russell and Michelle Goh.
By Shaan Bajaj
As a life-long vegetarian, Mia Bangkok has been on my radar ever since they introduced their vegan and vegetarian tasting menu. I even added it to my ‘to-try’ Google Maps list, saving it for a special day. Therefore, you can imagine my excitement when I received an invited to sample their new seasonal tasting menu. The restaurant is located in a white and blue house with an inviting exterior that was luxe on the inside, and when I walked in, I saw a glimpse of the newly-opened Behind the Curtain bar and made my way upstairs.
Chefs Pongcharn Top Russell and Michelle Goh have introduced Mia’s new seasonal menu, with the intention to delight your palate using premium ingredients such as Josephine oyster, black truffle, red endive, salsify, grapes and more. I opted for their vegetarian five course menu (THB 3850 ++ per person) instead of their vegan menu, along with a wine pairing (THB 3150 ++).
We started with their cooling Pear granita, laid on a bed of radicchio and drizzled with shiso, which awakens your palate with its mint-like flavour. Next, four enticingly-plated snacks were placed in front me. I was advised to start with the Potato paillasson, as the thin layers of golden brown, crisp potato filled with a soft flavourful centre set the tone for what I could expect from Mia’s offerings. Next, I picked up the bite-size Spring pea tart, which had a paper-thin crust, and was filled with a refreshing, slightly sweet pea puree; before moving on to their Chickpea puff, which comes with a thin layer of jelly on top. It was well-spiced and rich compared to the previous snack. Finally, I ended the array of starters with their three cheese cigar, garnished with chives and tajin, which add an element of freshness and heat to the comforting, warm, and melted cheese centre.
While I was still in awe of their balance of flavours, we were served a plate of their signature Sourdough brioche, with shallot butter, topped with onion ash. The soft, melt-in-your-mouth texture paired with toasty butter is a reflection of Mia’s innovative gastronomy, yet homey comfort.
Moving on to their cold starters, we started with every millennial’s supposed favourite fruit, the humble avocado. The dish consisted of a fried slice of avocado, coated in blood orange powder on a bed of wasabi sauce seaweed flakes, and it was a revelation, with aromatic and pungent flavour of the wasabi easily cutting through the buttery avocado. However, under the plate was another hidden bowl, with cold wasabi slices and edible deep purple flowers, served with ginger snow; a continuously surprising dish that highlighted the versatility of the avocado.
What came next was one of my favourite plates of the night, their Burnt cucumber, which consisted of a bed of finally-chopped cucumbers in a herbaceous sauce, plated to make a circular border. The centre was then filled with a macadamia emulsion, and topped with droplets of mint oil. The usual mild flavour of cucumber was elevated with a smoky essence, while the mint and macadamia added a layer of cool nuttiness. The depth of flavous combined made for an exceptional dish.
Next, I tucked into their hot starters starting with their Celeriac dumpling, plated on a bed of demi-glaze, while Chef Top came to garnish it with freshly-shaved black truffle for that extra indulgence. The glaze was moreish, and the distinct flavour profile of the truffle tied the dish together. Afterwards, I dug into their Miso eggplant, served with milky burrata and savoury chimichurri, which was not as spicy as expected.
For my main course, I was served their Textures of onion risotto dish, which is garnished with barley and parmesan on top. The dish truly honoured the humble onion, which was used in a variety of ways to show how its flavour can deviate depending on how it is cooked. It was creamy, rich, and a delight to eat.
To start off our desserts, I was served Whipped feta, tomato jelly, watermelon. I wasn’t sure what to expect, but it was a surprisingly delicious dessert despite the unusual mix of ingredients. The tangy flavour of tomato and feta balanced the juicy sweetness from the watermelon. Finally, I knew I had to try the most talked about dish from Mia, their Mia’s cereal bowl, one they had to bring back on the menu because of the sheer amount of complaints they received when they took it off. After taking my first bite of the cereal, malted milk chocolate, malted milk, and corn ice cream, I was converted and now consider myself a dedicated fan. It marries the flavours of two of my favourite cereals growing up, Kellogg’s Frosties and Milo, while elevating their taste with the use of premium ingredients.
Make sure to book ahead for this one-of-a-kind seasonal menu!
30 Attha Kawi 1 (Sukhumvit Soi 26)
Open for dinner from Tuesdays to Sundays, from 5pm to 11pm (last booking at 8.30pm)
Open for lunch on Saturdays and Sundays, from 12pm to 2pm
Tel: 098 862 9659
Instagram and Facebook: @miarestaurantthailand