The Atrium at The Landmark Bangkok is an elevated all-day dining experience

By Pooja Prabbhan Srijith

I had an inkling that a superlative gastronomical experience awaited us right when we stepped foot in the expansive yet intimate interiors of the newly revamped Atrium restaurant at The Landmark Bangkok. And well, my instincts were proven right long before the food arrived. Located on the hotel’s lobby level, the all-day dining restaurant serves up international fare as well as homey flavours for the daily buffet, which can be accessed for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Besides upping their culinary finesse with seven new live counters (The Bakery, Seafood, Western, Asian, Japanese counters, and more), the restaurant takes on a global appeal — sprinkled with classic Thai aesthetics — that duly mirrors the inventive menu.

First Impressions

Exuding a fresh design sensibility that fuses an Art Deco blend of modern and Thai design, Atrium has all the bells and whistles of a gourmet dining space, armed with the advantage of being centrally located on the bustling Sukhumvit Road. The spotlight stays unflinchingly on the food, however, and the menu comprises a tempting array of Thai and global favourites. While it’s tough to pick from a sumptuous buffet spread where every dish vies for attention, my vote goes to the first dish I sampled — Steamed salmon with lime, but more on that later.

Food and Drinks

The comforting aroma and rich yet subtle flavours of the fresh Truffle mushroom cream soup with truffle croissant made it certain that I was off to a good start. The soup is a great way to build on an appetite. The seafood in Thailand enjoys a good reputation, so we went with Orecchiette pasta cream with salmon roe and the Charcoal grilled river prawn, both of which were far from disappointing. The charred flavour of Charcoal grilled river prawn is one of the bestsellers on the menu, and the fresh-off-the-charcoal textures sit well, delivering complete justice to the dish.

Since there’s no way one can possibly go wrong with the union of orange head butter and freshwater prawns, I also had a good feeling about the Oyster with herb and seafood sauce. Albeit an acquired taste, the restaurant fares decently well in terms of getting the combination of flavours right with this one, balancing the subtle flavour of fresh Oyster with a pungent herb and seafood sauce.

Overall, the portions are generous, so tread with caution if you’re counting your bites. The restaurant’s continual emphasis on retaining the freshness and original flavours of the ingredients and meats comes through in every dish on the menu.

What’s a good meal without dessert? On that note, I chose not to count the calories and ended the decadent culinary sojourn with Thailand’s signature treat, the Mango sticky rice. While it wasn’t something out of the ordinary, there’s something about a ‘sweet’ ending that’s close to home, something we are comfortable and familiar with.

MASALA RECOMMENDS

The steamed Salmon with lime is a delicacy served on a bed of lightly sautéed garlic pods, which leaves one feeling full, but not stuffed. The tender chunk of salmon with minimal spicing lets the freshness of the fish take centre stage. The copious amounts of garlic buds leave a punchy aftertaste, making it a dish that’s a feast for the eyes as much as it is to the stomach. The subtle medley of lime and a variety of sauces on the fresh salmon leave a delightful feeling on your taste buds, making this dish, from the restaurant’s select tempting buffet stations, one that truly hits the spot.

The buffet is priced at THB 1,800 net.

ATRIUM AT THE LANDMARK BANGKOK

138 Sukhumvit Road, Bangkok

Phone: +66 (0) 2254 0404

Email: atrium@landmarkbangkok.com

Instagram: @atrium.landmark.bangkok