Paii, at W Bangkok, offers some of the best Thai seafood in town

Pieces of Paii in The House on Sathorn

Published on:

Mar 03, 2025, 3:31 am

Paii (meaning padel in Thai) is a modern take on Thai cuisine centred around some of the most delicious combinations of both local and imported seafood in one of the capital’s iconic landmarks, The House on Sathorn at W Bangkok. To fully appreciate this fine dining experience, one must take in the historic surroundings of the restaurant. Built to completion in the late 1800s, The House on Sathorn possesses a soft and alluring buttercream yellow façade. It’s a building I have driven by so many times yet never set foot in. Up until this recent visit, I always viewed this wonderful building as the remnants of an old Hollywood movie set, sitting between two towers, ignorantly having no notion of what lies within. On this occasion, however, I saw it for what it truly is: an enchanting house that hosts quite a memorable Thai dining experience, both indoors and outdoors.

The Ambiance

Just a few steps away from the entrance of W Bangkok, The House on Sathorn is beautifully lit, welcoming patrons with its multitude of open green window sills and shutters and a warm glow projecting from every room. In the evening, it presents a stunning silhouette, and even more so is the starlit courtyard in the centre of the property. Subsequently, Paii’s interior and dining space masterfully preserves its original architecture and foundation while seamlessly blending the opulent style of the ‘Roaring Twenties’ with the suave, spy-chic cinematic décor and vibes of a 1960s James Bond film. At one point, my friend who had accompanied me on this visit commented on the ambiance and backdrop; she said it was seemingly ideal for foreign dignitaries to conduct clandestine conversations while sipping on a vodka martini – shaken, not stirred.

It is essential to fully grasp the energy around you, as your dining experience is enhanced and prepped by the sights and sounds complementing each other. The eclectic playlist is heard throughout the restaurant in a hushed volume, and the large, vibrant, and abstract tapestries adoring the yellow walls heighten the senses even further. Setting the mood is something Paii does flawlessly. Not to mention the Flappers-themed cocktail party that was thrown on this particular day. We were hoping to spot Jay Gatsby himself chasing after Daisy Buchanan.

The Culinary Selection

The ambiance, of course, wasn’t the only thing Paii excelled at. In perhaps the most seductive ways possible, our meal began with the Hoy nang rom sod (THB 520 for three pieces; THB 890 for six pieces). The Jean-Paul oysters, accompanied by Paii’s chili jam and the seafood staple nam jim, were fresh, slightly milder, and sweeter to the taste with the addition of the two sauces. Elevating the tastebuds was the Larb nhuad pla mhuek yak yang (THB 990), a beautifully plated, charcoaled Spanish octopus, larb salad, and mint, all in the shape of a crescent. The seafood excellence continued with the Kaeng leuang nuea pu bai cha plu (THB 780). At first glance, the blue swimmer crab seemed unimpressive on its own until the pouring of the yellow curry stole the show – loaded with flavour yet a subtle kick of spice.

A slightly spicier affair, but still kind to diners who prefer to temper the spice level, was the Yum talay tom ka haeng (THB 580), a plate of mixed seafood – á la Tom Ka – with spicy coconut cream. It’s alarming how quickly we devoured this particular dish. A more gluttonous dish that would be appropriate for both fine dining and a backyard BBQ came in the form of the Pad kaprao moo grob (THB 420), a mouthwatering dish of stir-fried crispy pork with Thai hot basil.

Balancing out the meatier dishes, but equally well-balanced and flavourful, were the Pad ka nan am mun hoy (THB 120), stir- fried kale with oyster sauce and topped with crispy garlic, and the Ka lam plee ob nam pla (THB 120), a comforting combination of cabbage baked in a clay pot with fish sauce. As if this wasn’t enough, we were treated to an incredibly generous portion of Khao pad pu (THB 2,200). The giant crab fried rice, packed with 500 grams of mud crab meat and organic eggs, was cooked to absolute perfection. However, keep in mind this specific dish is suitable for four people or more.

For dessert, we were presented with Thai tea-ramisu (THB 400). It is exactly what you think it is. The name leaves little to the imagination, but the combination of Thai tea and mascarpone for this occasion would be a warm, welcomed, sweet ending to any meal. But suppose you’re looking for something of the fruitful persuasion. In that case, the Paii waffle (THB 490), accompanied with Diplomat cream, fresh berries, and mixed berry syrup, may tempt you to toss the utensils and get your hands messy with every bite.

The Masala Choice

In the most juicy, scrumptious, and overly-satisfying fashion, the Choo chee goong mae nam (THB 1,150), grilled giant river prawns, doused in Choo Chee curry sauce, was the standout favourite from the menu. This dish turned us into selfish diners, fighting the urge to share with others just so we could have every morsel to ourselves. Tender to the touch, every bite was tastier than the last, as the sweet and savoury heat of the sauce enhanced the chargrilled prawns while maintaining the consistency of their freshness. I would come back for this dish alone.