K by Vicky Cheng is a Modern Culinary ode to Traditional Cantonese Cuisine

For the average city dweller, The Empire building in Sathorn is one of the more well-known skyscrapers in town. People come and go, in their corporate garbs and get down to business like clockwork. However, this structure has gone through a slight modification. It’s starting to become an entire experience; a hub of metropolitan lifestyle activities, if you will. The most significant transformation, by far, is found at the topmost floors: the introduction of a few fi ne-dining establishments that have been blessed by the Michelin gods. One of them happens to be K by Vicky Cheng – an elegant and modern take on Cantonese cuisine by the Michelin-starred namesake.

THE AMBIANCE

The experience actually begins by taking the first steps toward a set of elevators that exclusively open their doors to the top most floors of the building; hidden away in an intimately lit and winding path, draped in polished black and accents of gold. This sectioned off part of the building is the sophisticated EA Rooftop, hosting the aforementioned Michelin-calibre fine dining. The black and gold theme runs through the entire 56th floor until you make a left or right turn to your designated restaurant.

K by Vicky Cheng is what you would expect from a modern restaurant. The ambiance is of elite standards in contemporary design and rich heritage. But the stunning bit is the incredibly striking Chinese art, honouring the past while seamlessly blending the present. The main culinary concept and design inspirations are from the mythical Chinese creature ‘kilin’, which is known to be a gentle and benevolent spirit. There are kilin-inspired motifs throughout, beautifully presenting rich, deep hues of red and gold that symbolise longevity and prosperity. Interestingly, while the restaurant exudes class and opulence, you never feel out of place. There is instant comfort the moment you step inside. Well, up until you look outward and are left in awe by the jaw-dropping views of Bangkok’s skyline.

THE CULINARY SELECTION

Our afternoon of dining was a wonderful balance of textures, fl avours, and aromas. More importantly, with a sigh of relief, it remained consistent from the first dish to the last. Chef Vicky Cheng’s approach to the menu is an elevated version of Cantonese and Chiu Chow flavours. The Hong Kong native presents ‘The Harvest of Kilin’, an original style of Chinese cuisine that blends old-school wisdom with new-school techniques with the freshest local ingredients to craft exquisite dishes.

On this occasion, we were treated to one of the private and semi-private dining rooms, which can accommodate 8-12 guests and offer stunning views of the city. Granted, it was just me and a couple of my colleagues, but once the fi rst dishes were gracefully placed in front of us, we realised we required a larger Lazy Susan. We had the pleasure of trying items from both the Lunch Set Menu (THB 780++) and the à la carte menu. From the former, we were offered a dynamic duo, starting with the Barbecue Iberico pork “char siu” with fried egg – a deliciously guilty combination of juicy meat and the rich, creamy, runny yolk, heightened further by the crispy edges of the pork and fried egg. Next, we were provided a little warmth and comfort with the Hot and sour soup with crab meat, which makes for the perfect comfort food if you’re feeling a little homesick.

From the impressive a la carte menu, the Hokkaido scallop and egg white fried rice (THB 880 for large; THB 480 for medium) was a generous companion to delectable selections that followed. And like any other citizen or resident of the continent of Asia, not having rice with our meal would be a travesty. Elevating our meal, the Chu hou braised wagyu beef short rib with daikon (THB 980 for large; THB 580 for medium) melted in our mouths, tender and luscious. Additionally, we couldn’t leave out a few glistening greens either, and that is where the Stir-fried seasonal vegetables (THB 380) came in and hit the right spot, balancing out the flavours of the more savoury dishes.

But the seafood had its own argument toward winning our tastebuds. The Sichuan river prawn (THB 1,080 for six pieces; THB 680 for three pieces), tantalisingly sitting on a bed of Sichuan peppers, did a fantastic job of distracting us from the rest of the offerings. Then again, one-upping the game, there was K’s signature mud crab with Chinese olive leaf and garlic (THB 2,880), a large plate of some of the best crab you’ll have the opportunity to bite into, after you’ve gently split it open with provided gloves and a shell cracker of course.

To end our afternoon meal, we were treated to the Double- boiled bird’s nest with chilled coconut soup (THB 780) and Thai mango sago and coconut ice cream with red pomelo (THB 280). Not overly sweet, both desserts cradled us into a fairytale-like lull with flavours we’ve been familiar with all our lives. Although the dishes may have been plated in a sophisticated manner, each dish possesses trusted ingredients that can easily disarm the senses.

THE MASALA CHOICE

It’s always a pleasant experience when an unassuming dish, that may not look impressive under the selection of appetizers, becomes the delicious surprise of the bunch. The Chiu chow style raw ama ebi (THB 480 for medium; THB 880 for large), with a hint of sweetness, has a proper rush of tangy and succulent flavours. Fortunately, as for some of the other dishes from the menu, we were encouraged to get our “hands dirty” as we did with the mud crab. Unfortunately, we found it slightly unseemly to lick our fingers with the absence of gloves before diving in for yet another bite of those mouthwatering crustaceans.

K BY VICKY CHENG

The Empire 56th Floor, No. 1 South Sathorn Road, Yannawa,

Sathorn, Bangkok, Thailand 10120

Phone: 02 407 1654

Lunch: 11:30 AM – 2:30 PM | Dinner: 5:30 PM – 10:30 PM

Facebook | Instagram:: @kbyvickycheng

www.kbyvickycheng.com