Tsu plates contemporary Japanese cuisine with zen-like execution

There is an unmistakable aura behind Japanese cuisine, birthed from centuries-old traditions and the rich culture of the ‘Land of the Rising Sun’. It has maintained the perfect balance between timeless Japanese aesthetics and disciplined practices in various facets of life.

With meticulous intent, it epitomises culinary art. Be it the wrapping of sushi firmly blanketed in crisp nori or the fresh sashimi finely sliced with speed and precision, Japanese fine dining will always refuse the notion of compromising quality and half-hearted gestures.

There isn’t just passion behind the art; there is pride.

My dining experience at Tsu – revamped, slightly distanced, yet still joined at the hip from its earlier iteration (Tsunami) – was a blissful satisfaction that can only be delivered by authentic Japanese ingredients, preparation, and execution.

Led by Chef Atsushi Yoshida, who gracefully carries the culinary heritage of the Fukui Prefecture in Japan, Tsu’s flawless presentation is credited to his 26-plus years of journey through Japanese cuisine.

Walking down the spotless stairway to the ground floor of the JW Marriott Hotel Bangkok feels like a luxurious hideaway – a path leading to a sophisticated space warmly welcoming patrons to immerse themselves in its intimate and signature Japanese minimalism.

Tsu is predominantly furnished with dark woods, from tables and chairs to slatted screens and ceiling accents. The lighting is layered and intentionally low with backlit frosted panels and cluster pendant fixtures, providing a cosy effect.

Natural light filters in through surrounding large glass panels, revealing a cool, green backdrop. While the design is quintessentially Japanese, with softly lit sculptural wall panels and art pieces, it serves the single purpose of placing a spotlight on the exquisite dishes themselves.

Each dish was presented as if it were plated with masterful strokes of a sumi-e brush on a pristine canvas, where technique and grace blended seamlessly.

My colleagues and I feasted without disturbing the calming flow felt throughout the entire restaurant. Every item that came to our table evoked temptation, yet allowed us to genuinely appreciate how meticulously every element was placed before a single bite had been taken.

The Assorted sashimi and sushi (THB 880) were a splendid combination of Hamachi, salmon, scallop, amaebi, grilled eel, avocado, scallop, and California sushi on spoons. The flavours and textures were preserved wonderfully, thanks to the honoured tradition of ikejime – a technique that maintains the quality of fish without stress through passive suffocation.

Next came the Spicy salmon roll (THB 500) with Tamari soy sauce from the Aichi Prefecture, offering a bolder taste, possessing less salt and more depth. The Aichi’s miso-making tradition refines the seasoning, creating a thick, rich, and deeply umami flavour.

From the Kagoshima Prefecture, the Hamachi sweet soy sesame sauce (THB 390) is sourced from clean coastal waters and from one of the few farms in Japan certified by the ASC (Aquaculture Stewardship Council). This yellowtail fish is buttery and flavour-packed, enhanced by wasabi, nori, spring onion, and teriyaki sauce.

Transitioning from seafood to meats, the Tiger prawn and chicken okakiage (THB 450) – prawn, chicken thigh, rice cracker, asparagus, lemon, and onion sauce – made for a delicious bridge leading to the Grilled Stone A5 Japanese wagyu striploin (THB 1,580).

Tender with every bite, the aroma and presentation offered a full sensory experience, carrying the intoxicating scent of seared fat, the taste of nutty undertones, and an aesthetically pleasing caramelised crust.

I always underestimate great Japanese dining, assuming I would be left wanting more. The reality is: the meal is deceivingly filling. Then again, we foodies and dining enthusiasts possess an extra stomach for desserts.

For the final bites, the Kinako pudding cream (THB 290) – a milk soy bean pudding – was soft to the touch and a subtly sweet ending to an already fulfilling experience.

The Aichi-style unagi kabayaki “hitsumabushi” (THB 980) is a multi-step eel rice dish featuring finely sliced unagi kabayaki – grilled eel with a sweet soy-based sauce, served over rice.

Firstly, the desi in me was pleased to see the bed of steaming rice underneath the perfectly cooked eel. Secondly, this is possibly the best grilled eel dish I’ve had in my life.

Originating from Nagoya, the capital of Aichi Prefecture, the charcoal-grilled freshwater eel is lacquered with a rich kabayaki sauce. The inside is tender while the skin crackles delicately, complementing the tare glaze and smoky aftertaste.

I nearly dropped my chopsticks after the first bite. If you want to experience a masterclass in contrast between smoky char and velvety meat, Tsu will deliver.