Colette Bangkok Brings French Bistro Culture to Sukhumvit

France has long been a place of fascination for food pilgrimages. It has been immortalised in print, pixels, songs, but especially in the world of gastronomy. Bringing French classics and the ambience of a dining establishment in Paris is Colette. Much like the titular Victoria of Victoria’s Secret, Colette, too, is part of the restaurant’s mythos. She is present in the menu, marrying the vast cuisine of the French to the fresh ingredients of Thailand, from its thoughtfully curated selection to its social media presence.

Crowd: Colette is perfect for a casual night out with friends, those seeking refined bites in a laidback, bistro-esque atmosphere, and those looking for some place to get together and celebrate birthdays, reunions, and other milestones.

Space: Think glitz and glamour in hues of pink and cinnabar. There are three designated seating areas, and each one comes with its own sense of character. As you step into the space, to the left is the traditional setup of dinner tables with unobstructed views of the kitchen. Further left, beyond sliding glass doors, is the outdoor seating. Surrounded by green, it is perfect for Colette’s brunch and cafe menu–or even drinks on a cool summer evening. To the right, with the bar as the focal point, is low seating and dim lighting for those craving beverages with their bites and intimate conversations. Look away from the floor-to-ceiling windows facing towards the bustling city, and it almost feels like you’re restaurant hopping in Le Marais.

The first thing I noticed, even before the cocktails or shared plates, was the coasters on which the glasses of water sat. This blue coaster had a cursive “Colette” printed on it. The writing looked as though it had been ripped directly from the elusive Colette’s diary. And so, our meal began with the Foie gras on brioche (THB 550). Tender and buttery, its taste was enhanced by the pistachio creme and orange gel emulsion. With a single bite, the French classic set the tone for what was yet to come. Next came the Moules marinière (THB 760). These mussels, drenched in white wine and cream sauce, came with a helping of fresh garlic bread.

Stepping away from the non-vegetarian classics, we were treated to the Sumac roasted aubergine (THB 580). The influences on this dish were more Persian than Parisian as the roasted aubergine rested atop a pond of mint labneh. The familiar vegetable came apart easily underneath the light touch of a knife, and the dressing of fresh pomegranates and almonds provided a burst of freshness and crunch, respectively.

With their boulangeries and patisseries, and thanks to the popularity of baking shows like The Great British Bake-Off, French desserts are exceedingly well known. The first of these to arrive at our table was the Bergamot curd (THB 320). The lime meringue topped with kaffir lime powder was both indulgent and crisp. Finally came the Mille-feuille (THB 320), a flaky and delicate dessert made of English cream and layers of brittle puff pastry. The addition of the caramel sauce and nut crumble added layers of depth to the sweetness.

To complement the dishes, we also had the chance to sample some of Colette’s cocktails. Each cocktail symbolises a different fashion capital of the world, to keep up with the eponymous Colette’s jet-setting lifestyle. Our first stop was Milan with the La moda negroni (THB 440). A spirited take on the classic Negroni, the drink was topped with a generous helping of Earl Grey foam. Paying homage to the Land of Smiles was The silk route (THB 420). Placed upon a Jim Thompson coaster detailing the tale of the Ramakien, the cocktail is an amalgamation of Bangkok’s vibrant markets. It is a mix of Havana rum, mango sticky rice cordial, lemongrass, and other ingredients. For a finishing detail, printed onto the foam were the symbol representing both Bangkok and Thailand: an elephant and a tuk-tuk.

The talk of the table was the Lobster tagliatelle (THB 1,280). A creamy and rich pasta dish with a dill Parisienne sauce, bottarga, and fresh Canadian lobster, the tagliatelle is deceptively simple. No one ingredient overpowers another in the quest to reach your heart. With a flavour profile that simply melts on your tongue, it is the sort of dish that you find yourself continuously reaching for with your fork outstretched.

525 Sukhumvit Rd (Soi 29)

Klongtoey Nua, Watthana

Bangkok 10110

Open Daily 6 AM–1 AM

Tel.: 02 078 8433

Instagram: @colette.bangkok

Facebook: @colettebangkok