The History of the Pyjama: From India to Everyday Style

Imagine the perfect cosy day. A crackling fireplace (in our case, an air conditioner on full blast is preferable), a comfy duvet set-up, and a movie marathon.

Now, what are you wearing? Certainly not jeans! No, the perfect fit is obviously the most homey pair of pyjamas you own.

But did you know of the pyjama’s humble origins?

The term comes from the Hindustani pāyjāma, via the Persian pae-jamah, meaning "leg garment." In India, the modest pyjama was outerwear, paired with a collarless shirt known as the kurta.

The kurta-pyjama combo is still a staple today in traditional ethnic wear, but how did this unpretentious cotton style find its way across the seven seas?

THE BRITISH INVASION

The British presence in India during the 18th and 19th century proved to be the catalyst. The wry curmudgeons in charge of the Imperial Raj found the loose cotton breeches far superior in comfort when it came to lounging around.

By the 1870s, any stylish, upper-class Brit with a moustache to match their stiff upper lip knew the most fashionable outfit to puff a cigar in was the pyjama paired with a smoking jacket.

Where the pyjama was a genderless clothing item on the subcontinent, in Britain and countries where British officers were posted, these loose pants were found strictly in men’s armouries.

Women of the Victorian era stuck to their nightgowns. Let the men wear the trousers!

THE GREAT PYJAMA REVOLUTION

It was only in the 1930s that women, looking for liberation, turned to fashion.

During World War II, as raw materials became scarce, the pyjama pants became the practical, comfortable choice. Despite their allure, especially when draped on actresses like Audrey Hepburn, the silk nightgowns and babydoll dresses were being traded for frilly, more girlish versions of the pyjamas that had been a staple in men’s closets for years.

A funny thing was happening across the ocean in India. Following the industrial boom in the post-independent country, the two-piece pyjama set became an indicator of education, of class, of an urban, modern Indian landscape.

And the Victorian nightgown found a new life in the Indian nightie. Found in cotton, rayon, and khadi, the nightie became the symbol of the carefree Indian woman.

It is a trend that persists even to this day. Chances are if you duck into your mother’s or grandmother’s closet, a modest nightie will be folded into one of the compartments.

THE REVIVAL

The 2000s saw an explosion of outfits that were once confined to the home and were suddenly everywhere. A certain image was tacked onto sweatpants with prolonged exposure, one associated with sloppiness.

Post-COVID, the new charge is led by more and more people dressed down in their Alo or Lululemon leggings and a "going out" top.

But sleepwear as outerwear isn’t done yet!

Drawstring pyjama pants (preferably in a cool, checkered blue) and silk shorts inspired by lingerie (usually with a lace-trimmed edge), paired either with a simple tank top or a linen button-down, are the newest trends in sleepwear outside of the bedroom for women.

After all, who says you can only be comfortable when under the covers?

ANSWER KEY:

A) Classic Two Piece:

You love order and routine. If daily wear has strict combinations, why shouldn’t sleepwear?

We get it. It’s much easier to buy a matched set from Polo Ralph Lauren than trawling through your things.

B) Silk or Satin Set:

Like the two-piece, you like the familiarity of a matching set. It makes laundry easier, but you want a little more personality going to bed.

To dream big, try a satin set from homegrown Indian brand Dandelion.

C) Whatever's in the Closet:

Some days you’re too tired to think about a matched set. Sometimes it’s the first few things you grab from the closet.

Whatever’s comfy works.

D) Dressing Robe:

Oh honey, you are the drama.

For ultimate main character energy, why not shrug on a gorgeous lace kimono from Hunkemöller?