During my last pilgrimage to Punjab, I was only a child. “Ayush, never forget your roots,” my mother would say. “Because they’ll always be right here.”
In 2025, returning to India as an adult felt equal parts foreign and familiar. This past March and April marked my eighth and ninth visits, so I thought I knew what to brace for—bottled water only, no street food, keep the stomach safe. I came prepared, toes curled in anxious anticipation. And yet…Punjab won me over. Amritsar, especially, felt like the crown jewel.
Where else do wild cows and cars share the same road? Where else does chaos double as choreography? After years of touch-and-go trips, this time something changed. The truth is, India is not for the faint-hearted. It is a land of adventure, and Amritsar, particularly, has an Indiana Jones kind of magic. Ancient relics and treasures await the bold, the curious, and the hungry. Yes, there are horns blaring every second. Yes, the dust coats all of you. Yes, the crowds can be unapologetic. But then, there’s that moment. Standing roadside with dozens of strangers, letting the cold air hit your face as you wait for Ramesh Sharma’s famous jalebi and mini gulab jamuns. Or leaving the Attari border ceremony to sip the freshest, sweetest gane ka juice you’ve ever had. Or catching the whiff of a freshly baked kulcha before it even reaches your table.
India may feel stuck in the past. But read ahead and you’ll see, that from the pet-friendly cafes to high-end cocktail bars, and luxury shopping malls. Amritsar isn’t just Gurdwaras and tractors.
GETTING THERE:
Thai Lion Air’s Direct Flight
Reuniting with your roots--or discovering them for the first time--has never been easier. Thai Lion Air now offers nonstop flights between Bangkok’s Don Mueang International Airport (DMK) and Amritsar’s Shri Guru Ram Das International Airport (ATQ), operating under flight numbers SL214 and SL215. With departures from Bangkok every Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday, the cities of Amritsar and Bangkok are now more connected than ever before.
THE MAIN ATTRACTION:
The Golden Temple
There was a time when visiting the Golden Temple was a yearly pilgrimage for me. Returning after 10 years felt grounding, and a lot like walking back into a memory.
As you descend the steps alongside other pilgrims and complete your parkarma around the sarovar (sacred pool), it quickly becomes clear: this isn’t just a site for Sikhs. It draws people from every background—Hindus, Muslims, Christians, atheists—all there for the same peace.
Depending on the day, the wait from the Darshani Deori to the sanctum can be anywhere from 30 minutes to over three hours. In fact, on special occasions like Vaisakhi, the temple welcomes more than 100,000 visitors in a single day.
This time, I also discovered something new: the Digital Sikh Museum, tucked beneath the main entrance. Through beautifully animated films projected on sweeping walls, the exhibit traces the history of the Golden Temple from its founding to the present day.
WHERE TO GO:
Sadda Pind
Just a short drive from the Golden Temple, Sadda Pind is a living, breathing Punjabi mela set against the backdrop of rural life as it once was. It’s the kind of place where you don’t just observe culture—you walk straight into it.
Here, I watched a proud village chief with a thick handlebar moustache welcome guests like they were long-lost cousins. The air was filled with the sound of the dhol and a swirl of women in bright Punjabi suits, dancing giddha with joy. There were turban-tying stations, mehendi artists, even a “Well of Thrill” motorbike stunt show that had everyone holding their breath. I couldn’t help but smile when my grandma, taking in the clay walls and woven cots, said, “This is exactly how we lived.”
For ₹850, you get more than a show: you get a full Punjabi buffet, complete with makki di roti and sarson da saag, and enough warmth and nostalgia to last long after the evening ends.
WHERE TO EAT:
Elgin Group and Lubhaya Ram & Sons
A must-visit shop on your Amritsar food tour is the internationally famous Aam Papad stall owned by Lubhaya Ram. What started as a streetside rehdi (cart) selling strips of raw mango pulp has turned into a staple that is known in every Punjabi household. The taste of the papad is sour and tangy, with a little sweetness – a perfect little treat.
With roots in Dalhousie, where Elgin Hall has hosted guests since 1857, the Elgin Group brings a touch of vintage charm to Amritsar’s modern dining scene. What began as a heritage homestay has grown into a hospitality brand that now caters to every kind of visitor, from brunch lovers to late-night diners.
In Amritsar, their flagship Elgin Café is known for its stylish setting and curated mix of food, cocktails, and music. Across the way, on Ranjit Avenue, is Grain by Elgin, serving up a relaxed, family-friendly vibe with crowd-pleasers like shakshuka, avocado toast, and hearty kebab platters.
If you’re short on time, Grab and Go by Grain offers coffee and quick bites right next door. As a pet-friendly, no-frills spot, they also make one of the city’s signature desserts: kulfi falooda. After trying it myself, I can confidently say it is not too sweet and hits the spot.
WHERE TO STAY:
Le Meridien Amritsar
Set amidst the tranquil farmlands of Amritsar, Le Méridien offers a serene retreat for travellers just minutes from the airport.
Le Méridien Amritsar, a newly established property with its 147 keys, has quickly become a sought-after venue for weddings, with bookings filling up a year in advance.Its blend of modern amenities and traditional charm makes it an ideal choice for celebrations and gatherings.
Culinary enthusiasts will appreciate the hotel’s dining offerings. From freshly made kulche chole and a live dosa station, the hotel brings the flavours of Amritsar’s streets to your breakfast buffet, ensuring an authentic and safe culinary journey.
Looking to explore as you eat? The “Amritsar di Galliyaan” food trail experience allows guests to savour local delicacies, complete with guided transport on the Heritage Road and capped off with a relaxed poolside tea featuring local snacks. Additionally, guests can also take advantage of the complimentary shuttle service to the Golden Temple, available twice daily at 4 AM and 3 PM.