When was the last time you truly thought about your skin? Not just the lotions and potions you slather on, but the intricate balance of health, habits, and (let’s face it) hormones that determine whether you wake up with a glow or a breakout.
In a world where we’re constantly bombarded with skin care trends, from the ‘glass skin’ craze to the latest miracle serums, what does it actually take to keep your skin in pristine shape? Is it all about the products, or is it something more? To answer these burning questions, Masala sat down with Dr. Eesha Patel, a Board-certified dermatologist from The American Academy of Anti-Aging Medicine, whose expertise spans from general and regenerative medicine to cosmetic and general dermatology. In this interview, we dive into what really goes on beneath the surface and how a few mindful steps can make all the difference in the way we feel about our reflection.
Give us some insight into your upbringing. What initially sparked your interest in the field, and what continues to fuel your passion today?
I was born in India, but my family relocated to Bangkok when I was around nine years old. From an early age, I’ve always found myself naturally drawn to the medical field, fascinated by its ability to aid others.
Initially, I was drawn to the field of obstetrics and gynaecology (OBGYN), but during my early years of medical school, I realised that I was a highly visual learner, which led me to develop a deeper interest in dermatology. Today, as a dermatologist specialising in aesthetics and wellness, my passion is continually fuelled by the dynamic nature of the field, with new treatment modalities emerging every day for both common and rare skin conditions. The ability to help individuals overcome their long-term skin and general health concerns using my expertise is something I will always be grateful for, and it is a responsibility I am committed to upholding for as long as I practise medicine.
Tell us more about your current practice and area of specialisation. What aspects of dermatology do you focus on most?
I currently practise across general medicine, medical and cosmetic dermatology, anti-ageing, and overall wellness. I’m also American Board-certified in anti-aging and regenerative medicine, which allows me to approach each patient’s concerns through a more holistic, inside-out lens, blending both science and aesthetics to support long-term skin health.
At the clinic, I see everyone from newborns to individuals well into their eighties, treating a broad spectrum of skin concerns. While each case brings something unique to the table, I frequently work with acne, eczema, allergic and infectious rashes, pigmentation disorders, and paediatric skin conditions. In addition to skin-related issues, I also treat a range of everyday ailments like colds, fevers, and allergies. It’s a diverse and dynamic field, and that’s exactly what I love about it. There’s truly never a dull day in medicine.
Given the Thai climate, have you observed any common skin concerns among individuals with Desi skin?
Regardless of the climate, one of the most common concerns I encounter in Desi skin is hyperpigmentation. It can stem from a variety of causes, including post-acne marks, insect bites, or eczema, but more often than not, it is triggered by sun damage or conditions such as melasma.
With the rise of the ‘clean-girl’ aesthetic, many individuals have embraced elaborate 10-step skincare routines. In your professional opinion, do such regimens genuinely benefit the skin, or are they excessive?
I’m a firm believer in the philosophy that less is more, and anyone who’s ever consulted me will absolutely vouch for that. To me, clean skincare isn’t about trendy labels, but about using a minimal number of well-formulated products that offer maximum benefit. It’s a more mindful and sustainable approach, especially when compared to the overwhelming 10-step routines that may feel exciting at first but often prove difficult to maintain, both financially and in terms of time. Skincare should feel like self-care, not a chore.
For those unfamiliar with skincare, what fundamental steps should they incorporate into their routine to build a strong foundation?
If there’s one product I’d urge absolutely everyone to use, it’s a high-quality sun protectant. Start early, start young, and your skin will thank you for it in the long run. The second non-negotiable in any routine is a great moisturiser, not just for your face but for your entire body. If you’ve got these two essentials in place, chances are you won’t need to visit me very often.
We understand that you work with brides-to-be. What is the process of developing a personalised skincare regimen in preparation for their wedding day?
I usually begin with an in-depth conversation with each bride-to-be, taking time to understand her skin type, texture, tone, and any specific concerns she may have. I urge all soon-to-be-brides to begin this process six months in advance of their big day, but sometimes that’s not always the case. In fact, I’ve even consulted brides as early as a month away from their wedding dates. From there, we work together to build a realistic, manageable skincare routine that fits seamlessly into her lifestyle. The goal is to help her look and feel her absolute best on the big day, without needing to spend hours on skincare each day. It’s all about consistency, balance, and enhancing her natural glow.
Many skincare products in Asia, including Thailand, contain whitening agents that may be harmful. Which ingredients should consumers be cautious of when selecting products?
Long-term use of steroids and hydroquinone (a common skin-lightening agent) can often do more harm than good, especially when used without proper medical guidance. I always recommend consulting with a dermatologist before starting any new regimen, particularly when it comes to treatments that alter the skin barrier. It’s also wise to opt for skincare products from clean, transparent brands (ones that clearly list their ingredients!) so you know exactly what you’re applying and can avoid any unpleasant surprises. Skin health is all about informed choices, not quick fixes.
There is a widespread misconception that Desi skin is resistant to sunburn and tanning. Could you clarify the reality of this and recommend sunscreens best suited for desi skin?
Desi skin typically has a higher melanin content compared to Western skin types, which does offer some natural protection from the sun’s harmful UV rays. However, this is not sufficient for complete protection. Prolonged, unprotected exposure to the sun in a tropical climate like ours can lead to a variety of skin concerns, including tanning, hyperpigmentation, and uneven skin tone—just to name a few. These are common issues that arise from neglecting proper sun care, and they can be difficult to reverse. So, it’s definitely essential to take proper precautions to protect and care for the skin.
Skincare is often influenced by internal health as much as external treatments. What dietary recommendations do you suggest for maintaining healthy, radiant skin?
Water! There’s no better skin food than plenty of it. Hydration is absolutely key to maintaining that glow from within. And of course, it’s all about balance: try to cut down on the junk food and opt for more fruits and vegetables. They’re packed with the vitamins and nutrients your skin craves to stay healthy and luminous.
There has been a growing interest in homeopathy and natural skincare remedies. What are your thoughts on the efficacy and safety of products such as beef tallow as a moisturiser?
There is limited research on the use of beef tallow as a moisturiser for human skin, and it has not been proven to be either beneficial or safe for topical use. Just because a substance contains nutritional value doesn’t necessarily mean it can effectively deliver those nutrients to your skin when applied topically. For this reason, I do not recommend using beef tallow as part of your skincare routine. It’s always best to stick with well-researched, dermatologically approved products for optimal skin health.
Hormonal fluctuations, whether due to the menstrual cycle or pregnancy, can have a significant impact on the skin: sometimes leaving it glowing, while at other times causing dullness or breakouts. Are there effective ways to balance the skin during these changes?
It’s crucial to be mindful of the changes in your mind, body, and environment, and recognise how these factors impact your skin. By doing so, we can target the root cause of any concerns and tailor a treatment plan that addresses those specific needs. Achieving balanced skin comes down to three key pillars: hydration, protecting the skin’s barrier, and maintaining consistency in your skincare routine. The best approach, always, is to nourish and support your skin, ensuring it stays healthy and supple in the long run.
The skincare industry is highly dynamic and oversaturated with products and treatments. How do you stay informed and ensure that your practice remains at the forefront of emerging trends?
Staying at the forefront of emerging trends is essential in my practice, so I make it a priority to consistently dive into the latest research, attend specialised workshops and seminars, and engage with my network of peers and colleagues. My commitment to continuous learning ensures that I remain ahead of the curve, delivering the best treatments and innovative solutions to my patients, all while maintaining the highest standards of care.
Outside of your professional work, how do you like to unwind and spend your free time?
When I’m not in the clinic, I love spending quality time with my family and friends — they’re my grounding force. Traveling and exploring new countries is something I hold close to my heart; each place offers something unique to learn and experience. I’m also a big fan of long drives, especially when they’re paired with heart-to-heart conversations. And, of course, my latest obsession is my one-year-old baby girl!