Imagine a long table.
Now, imagine every possible surface on this piece of furniture to be completely covered in food, from dipping sauces to dessert.
A spread this lavish and decadent is made memorable by the company you keep, by the people joining you at this long table.
Large family dinners are often kept for large holiday parties or reunions, but the spirit, the essence of a shared meal, does not have to be contained to these events.
It is the food that is passed around, hands brushing against one another for the last slice of flatbread, which makes the occasion.
Recently reopened, The Allium, at The Athenee Hotel, Bangkok, understands this concept of social and shared dining perfectly.
The Allium makes a grand first impression the minute you turn the corner after stepping out of the elevator.
Two large red doors greet you at the entrance.
Crowd: Sitting on the third floor of the Athenee Hotel, Bangkok, this restaurant is great for small, intimate gatherings with both friends and family.
The space can also host mid-sized dinners for up to 10 people.
The ritzy interiors, view looking out upon the city, ambient lighting, and even the smattering of Greek statue busts make The Allium a snap-worthy spot for date nights, too.
Space: Pushing the doors open leads to a swanky interior bathed in dim lighting and accents of red, white, and gold.
A piano sits by the bar, fallboard closed.
The space has a mixture of low sofas and traditional chair seating.
For large groups, two tables flank the middle section of mixed seating.
On the one side, in view of the open kitchen, a long, wooden, and slightly misshapen table sits under a spotlight for a more casual feel.
On the other side, behind sliding glass doors and a wine fridge, is another private table, allowing diners a modicum of privacy.
Sometimes the most intimidating part of trying a new restaurant can be deciding what to eat.
For our dinner at The Allium, we were provided with The Experience Menu, a set menu which is THB 5,900++ per set.
The Experience Menu spearheads the new, dynamic Mediterranean concept that The Allium has evolved into.
We began with the Modern Tapas course.
An assortment of dishes was spread across the table.
Green olives and the Truffle manchego arrived in small bowls, providing familiar tapas favourites along with cold cuts of Chorizo—one of which was delicately sculpted in the shape of roses.
Inspired by Chef Clément Hernandez’s upbringing and training were the memories of tortilla de patatas, a bite-sized confit potato omelette, and the Chef’s grandmother’s croquetas, a breaded roll which came apart with a crunch and gave way to gooey cheese and béchamel.
Closing out the tapas were the Stuffed piquillo peppers.
As the name suggests, the Sharing course is meant to be, well, shared.
The ocean is well and alive in these offerings, as the Childhood paella and Tiger prawn are whisked directly from the kitchens of coastal Mediterranean homes.
Decadent and filling, the paella arrived in a large pan, topped with pork belly and prawns.
The disarmingly humble presentation reflected the dish’s name as something that would be served at a childhood dining table.
The Pasta and Grill courses brought with them choices.
We chose the Mushroom ravioli and the Mediterranean octopus leg.
The mushroom ravioli was perfectly creamy with hints of garlic and parsley.
The egg nestled in the centre of the dish brought with it a richness that was complemented by the mushroom foam layer atop the ravioli.
It was an exemplary counterpart to the tender octopus meat of the Mediterranean octopus leg.
It was cut into bite-sized pieces so, as per the chef, to seem less intimidating to the less-adventurous eater.
This sort of thoughtful foresight really adds to the charm of the dish itself.
Of course, no meal is ever complete without drinks.
While it is only natural to reach for a glass of water or (my favourite drink of choice) a crisp Coke Zero, we would be remiss if we did not try the drinks on offer at The Allium.
The signature drinks playfully follow the theme of the coastal vacation, with each drink manifesting a different sort of endless holiday.
From The perfect gin + tonic (THB 330), which sweetens the traditional G&T with its use of strawberry cordial, the Summer in Santorini (THB 330), the Midas touch (THB 330), and, my personal favourite, the Amalfi smash (THB 330), a flirty cocktail made up of limoncello, vodka, and vanilla that transports you straight to the winding roads of the drink’s titular Amalfi Coast.
Closing out The Experience Menu was the dessert course, and we were spoiled by not one, but three kinds of desserts.
The Grilled baby pineapples came with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and espelette chilli for that extra kick.
The Organic lemon tart had me reaching for seconds as the combination of basil sorbet and meringue provided a tangy, slightly peppery, and sweet taste.
For a more neutral and classic dessert fare, the Chiang Mai chocolate mousse expertly dances with the line between rich, dark chocolate and zesty berries for a well-rounded dessert.
The cacao nibs also bring a crackle to contrast with the smooth mousse.
In the midst of the Tapas menu was a dish that changed my opinion on mashed fish spread.
As a child, a tuna sandwich was often my go-to snack, but as is the case with many childhood favourites, this too faded with time.
So, I went into tasting the Smoked mackerel pâté with a healthy dose of reservation.
The smoked mackerel pâté came in a bowl surrounded by parsley.
In the centre of the canyon of mackerel is dill oil and the scene-stealer: the finger lime.
This citrus pearl gives off the impression of caviar and bursts on the tongue, countering the brine of the mackerel.
Just scoop the mackerel and the finger lime onto a crostino slice and savour the crunch.
61 Wireless Road (Witthayu), Lumpini
Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330
Opening Hours:
Lunch: 11:30AM–14:30PM | Dinner: 18:00PM–22:00PM
Closed on Mondays
Tel.: (+66) 2-650-8800
Facebook: @thealliumbangkok
Instagram: @thealliumbangkok
Email: thealliumbangkok.theathenee@luxurycollection.com