Growing up in Southern California, there are plenty of life-altering lessons I’ve absorbed and applied to my life, instilled in me by my fellow Hispanic neighbours. Among the many teachings, for one, authentic Latin American food is best when abuela (grandmother) makes it. Second, never mess with a Latina; the women are as vivacious and colourful as the dishes they serve. And third, Latinos never lack passion; they epitomise it. I have been blessed to experience the entire combination, for better or worse. Either way, there is a clear and distinct inherent vibrancy in the way Latin Americans live life and, equally important, how they approach food.
Apart from our melanin-charged similarities, South Asians and Latin Americans have a deep appreciation for spices and fully comprehend the love that goes behind every mouthwatering dish. While our spice levels differ, each recipe delivers a carnival of flavours with its fresh and seasonal ingredients. And even though those recipes have tried and tested items with traditional culinary elements, there is always room for a bit of experimentation. When you reside in a multi-cultural environment like the capital, this becomes more apparent in every outing. This happens to be one of many reasons why Sarnies Cantina easily makes into a foodie’s must-try restaurants list in Bangkok.
THE AMBIANCE
My uncontrollable smile started from the outside in. The entire establishment is reminiscent of popular eateries I frequently visited in California. The name Sarnies Cantina is painted red and yellow on the side of the establishment’s exterior—a canvas with shades of brown, next to a one-way alley with non-stop traffic. I couldn’t be more pleased. For some, the location may seem a bit inconvenient, understandably, as parking is only available at certain times of the day. But this only further complements the aesthetics of this renovated shophouse in the heart of Sukhumvit 22, layering modern design touches on the charming original structure.
Placed on the first floor, the sun-soaked ambiance and Adobe colour scheme and design flow throughout, enhanced by a wooden build, such as the dark-wood counter, tables, and chairs. The Terrazzo flooring, decorative ceramic tiles, pendant lighting fixtures, and overall craftsmanship align with the build and aesthetics of traditional Mexican architecture and décor. The entire space screamed of my nostalgia. With the brunch spot’s patrons from different walks of life, I felt right at home.
THE CULINARY SELECTION
It’s important to remember that Sarnies Cantina is a fresh take on the brunch and breakfast experience. With a sigh of culinary relief, it delivers on every front. The rich and beautiful flavours are packed into every single bite, plated wonderfully, and undeniably filling. You could combine a cup of cappuccino (which was brilliant), a main item from the brunch menu, top it off with a sweet treat, and be overly satisfied by the end.
I had the pleasure of sinking my teeth into the Mexican eggs benedict (THB 280) with the options of adding gluten-free arepas (THB 25 extra), queso panela (THB 150 extra), pulled pork carnitas (THB 150 extra), beef cheek barbacoa (THB 150 extra), and smoked salmon (THB 220 extra). The mole hollandaise, sesame seeds, smoked tomato chimichurri, poached free-range eggs, and English muffin made me burn a hole through it even before taking the first bite. That melt-in-your-mouth item was followed by the Bandeja paisa (Colombian fry-up) (THB 480), a hearty combination of chicharrónes, guacamole, fried free-range eggs, frijoles (Latin baked beans), homemade chorizo patty or English pork sausage, fried plantains, roasted tomatoes, and arepa. This plate alone would cover all your bases for a meal. Perhaps I’m biased, but who would ever choose a traditional English breakfast over this stunner?
While I love burgers, I love sandwiches even more. The 3-cheese esquites toastie (THB 420), a sandwich with smoked corn salsa, roasted mushrooms, jalapeno cream cheese (to die for), grilled cheese, and cotija cheese on sourdough, provided a unique set of flavours and textures. The blend of smokiness, kick of spice, and the mix of cheese in various forms seemed gluttonous but was warmly welcomed.
A sweeter, slightly lighter, brighter, taste that reminded me of home was the Coconut rice pudding (THB 300) and Tres lechee cake (THB 280). The former is a healthy combination of homemade cacao granola, amaranth seeds, coconut rice pudding, pineapple compote, seasonal fruits, real maple syrup, roasted coconut flakes, and kaffir lime zest. The latter, on the other hand, is how anyone should end their meals. The tres leches is a technique that originated in Latin America, later adopted by Colonial Europe. This particular item with its goat’s milk-soaked vanilla chiffon, dulce de leche, toasted rice cream, and tuile, is as close as you can get to a homemade tres leches cake. Even though every household has its own signature to it, this still remains a sweet, warm, and beloved dessert.
THE MASALA CHOICE
The Mezcal sugo (THB 420) is a plate of farfalle pasta, bathed in chorizo crumbs, crema, and tomato sauce with mezcal. This is a dish I have never tried in my life, which is saying something because I’ve tried pretty much everything. But to combine pasta with the smoky intrigue of an ancient spirit handcrafted in Oaxaca, Mexico, is one of the greatest concepts I have come across. If there is one dish you have to visit Sarnies Cantina for, it has to be the Mezcal Sugo. Just one challenge: try not to devour it for seconds without savouring each bite.
SARNIES CANTINA
547-549, Sukhumvit, Soi 22,
Khlong Toei Nuea, Bangkok
Open daily from 7 AM to 10.30 PM
Book via Chope: +66 095 370 7688
Facebook: @sarnies.bkk
Instagram: @sarnies.bkk
Email: hellobkk@sarnies.com