By Grace Clarke
A little history can make a restaurant taste all the better; even the simple sight of “since” or the French “depuis” lends a name an unmistakable air of longevity.
For Paesano Italian Restaurant, this sentiment reigns. Founded by veteran restaurateur Suthan Sombat in 1979, it famously operated out of Soi Tonson in Lang Suan; one of the city’s first dining destinations dedicated to Italian cuisine, it was adored by Bangkok patrons, from regulars to A-listers alike. Inspired by his time studying abroad in Canada, Khun Suthan opened the restaurant as a love letter to Italian dining, which he discovered during his time overseas.
Today, the restaurant occupies a sprawling space on Nak Niwat Road in Lat Phrao, just a short walk from Central EastVille. The venue now encompasses its main dining room alongside an adjoining bakery near the entrance, Mr Paesano, brimming with daily bakes and its signature Banana muffins. The bakery is helmed by his eldest daughter, who honed her craft abroad and followed in her father’s footsteps; a fitting continuation of the Paesano story, some 40 years on.
Space: The restaurant’s exteriors are inviting and homely, with ample parking set amidst greenery and sunlit grounds. Step inside onto the terracotta tiles and you are immediately greeted by a cheerful team of waitstaff and an eclectic mix of old-world charm. An Italian interior thread runs through every detail, from the hand-finished and exposed brick walls to imported crystal chandeliers, hand-cut glass mosaic tiles, sprawling artworks, and carefully selected cutlery. A wine cellar wall adds another layer of old-world character, while the restaurant’s crest appears throughout the space, from the bar walls to the plates laid upon your table; a small but thoughtful emblem of its dedication to culinary craft and tradition.
Crowd: The restaurant is divided between a central dining area and more secluded rooms. If you are dining solo, the bar offers a cosy perch for bites and sips, while smaller groups can settle into the central dining area, where tables are made for conversation and cosy booths adding a touch of warmth. We were told the booths tucked into the back corner are a favourite among couples. For larger groups, there is a host of private rooms to choose from, accommodating different party sizes and table arrangements. Each has its own distinctive interior, yet remains cohesive with the restaurant’s rustic Italian aesthetic.
After what felt like a feast for the eyes, we settled into our table in the central dining area, ready for the meal to unfold. Our waiter suggested we begin with a glass of the House wine (THB 320), available in red and white, served in generous crystal stems and setting our appetites alight. Prior to our visit, we were strongly urged to savour the classic Baby clams au gratin (THB 295); the dish arrived alongside steaming Pizza bread (THB 70) and Garlic bread (THB 70), perfect for scooping up every last bit. A must-try it was, with the gratin quickly scraped clean.
Soon after, the Shrimp cocktail (THB 295) docked at our table, arriving with plump crescents of shrimp and a vibrant salad, followed by the classic Caesar salad (THB 320) for something creamier and green. Our appetisers rounded out with the steaming Onion soup au gratin (THB 320), which I am, quite frankly, still thinking about; piping hot, it arrived with spoonfuls of tender onion, stretchy cheese, and a deeply savoury broth.
Then came the entrées. First to catch our attention was the Pork chop (THB 465), glossy and charred, served with a dollop of creamy mashed potatoes, blanched spinach, and sautéed mushrooms. Because no visit to an Italian restaurant is complete without a slice, we tucked into the Pizza full moon (THB 390), with a crisp, thin crust and just the right ratio of sauce to cheese; ideal for passing around the table. Our last main course was the classic Spaghetti olio with vegetables (THB 420), fragrant olive-oil tossed pasta accompanied by greens that brought a little vibrancy and crunch.
Dessert arrived just in time, before we could collectively decide we were too full for more. We began with the classics, Tiramisu (THB 290) and Pannacotta (THB 220), two Italian dolci offering dreamy morsels of sweetness. Alongside them came the Sugar and pecan pie (THB 220), which quickly became a favourite for its generous layers of sugared pecans atop an indulgent buttery crust. An optimal dessert for the autumnal season; although, truthfully, it would be just as welcome for any occasion.
The Pasta penne pink sauce (THB 420) won us over from the first bite. The penne held onto the sauce wonderfully, giving each forkful an even mix of pasta and that moreish pink sauce. Ideal for sharing, but might have you reconsidering the etiquette of the matter.
Paesano Italian Restaurant
63 Nak Niwat Rd, Khwaeng Lat Phrao, Lat Phrao, Bangkok 10230
Opening Hours: Daily from 11 AM to 2 PM, 5 PM to 10 PM
Tel.: +66 (0)2 956 1495
Instagram: @paesanothailand
Facebook: @paesanothailand