The South American communities and the Indian community are quite similar in several ways: our mutual regard for tradition and families, our vivacious and unabashedly vibrant cultures, and, yes, our beautiful (if often spicy) cuisines. There is no shortage of Mexican and Latin-inspired flavours in Bangkok. We wouldn’t be a foodie’s paradise if we weren’t spoiled for choice. Though there are the old reliable go-to eateries like Taco Bell and Sunrise Tacos, these cuisines lean more towards a Tex-Mex style. Now, I do admit I am guilty of loving a large bowl of chips and guacamole as a go-to snack when I’m at home, but I know that Tex-Mex is about as South American as apple pie. South American cuisine, true South American cuisine, is still a mystery to me; so, the opportunity to dine at Guilty at Anantara Siam Bangkok, a restaurant showcasing South American flavours, was not an opportunity I could give up. As I recall saying in my four years of high school Spanish: ¡Vamanos!
As you walk on the panelled wood pathway, through Aqua Bar, across the courtyard in Anantara Siam where Guilty sits, you are greeted by a lush, verdant backdrop that blends right in with the foliage of the surroundings. It feels like a welcome escape from the concrete jungle outside. Two large wicker doors await our entrance. The woven straw style and texture immediately transported me to a memory of sweltering summers and finding refuge under large trees with a wicker chair.
Guilty transports us to the heart of South America, through its terrains and rainforests, right here in Bangkok. The doors open to a leafy and earthy oasis; tones of brown and dark green are the stars here. From the walls to the plush seating arrangements, everything is a varying shade of green. A total feast for the eyes!
There are potted plants on shelves which give Guilty’s little oasis the energy of a living, breathing ecosystem. Look up and suspended from the ceiling is a tubular structure, sort of in the shape of a coiled snake, which lights up the centre of the restaurant. Guilty is full of cheeky little nods to the jungle like this; from the appearing-then-disappearing graphics of amingos to the omniscient presence of a ring-tailed lemur (more affectionately known as King Julien from Madagascar (2005)) that keeps watch over the guests while they eat. Adding a little flavour of the urban to this jungle is the playlist of Latin pop, afro house, and energetic mixes of popular songs. The rhythm inspires you to get up and dance in the spirit of carnival! There are little pops of colour from the plates, ‘guilty’ in swooping letters in centre, while strips of colour in shades of orange, sunset yellow, and teal surround it. My favourite detail was the ‘guilty’ embroidered in soft pink against the viridian hues of the table napkin. With such a lavish welcome drawing me and my colleague in, we were beyond enthused to see what the menu had in store for us.
We began our descent into this gastronomical journey with a few of Guilty’s signature cocktails. Latin and South America are well known for their liquor, pisco in particular, so it came as no surprise that Guilty wished to honour the centuries of heritage and history. We began with the Pisco sour (THB 450), a grape-distilled spirit which is tart and sweet and wholly complex. Next came the famed margarita’s lesser-known sibling: Cantarito (THB 420). The refreshing cocktail bursts with citrusy flavours, perfect for cooling down after a day in the summer heat. Last but not least, came the Agave club (THB 450). As the name suggests, this cocktail makes mezcal (the sap of the agave plant) the star. A cheery reddish-pink colour, I noted a theme starting to emerge at Guilty. The dishes were the pops of colour, reflecting the vibrancy and vivacity of their country’s cuisines.
Throats no longer parched and glasses of water filled, we were ready for the food. The Crispy jalapeño poppers “relleno” (THB 350) astonished us with their size. Three crisp, golden-brown jalapeños were served with a garnish of gouda mozzarella and a yellow spicy sauce known as Huancaína, a staple Peruvian condiment. Next, I relished in seeing a familiar bowl, but this was nothing like the guacamole I’d had before. Guilty’s Sea-style guacamole (THB 680) takes a classic and puts a spin on it. Containing soft shell sea crab, red onion, coriander, and ikura, it truly brings the coast to your tongue. Make sure to scoop up every single bite with the chips for that perfect crunch.
Continuing our journey on the coast, there is the Salmon ceviche (THB 450). What’s special about this dish is its use of tiger’s milk. Tiger’s milk is a Peruvian-style marinade containing lime juice, chillies, onions, ginger, and celery. Said to give its drinker strength, the marinade mixed with green chilli and coriander has the formidable fragrance of green, of freshness. Stepping away from sea-faring and towards a familiar comfort, the Smoked hibachi BBQ pork belly (THB 880), served on its own little grill, consists of spicy marinated pork belly, a secret chef’s sauce, and grilled peppers. Soft and tangy, this is one dish to sit and savour with friends.
No meal is complete without dessert, and Guilty’s dessert, Banana Latina (THB 315), is a showstopper in its own right. A delectable banana cheesecake served with coconut ice cream, it balances the line between rich and sweet perfectly. Even the guiltiest of us could not resist this sugary goodness.
The Grilled seabass (THB 800) was a crowd-pleaser. This fish plate was thick, creamy, and yet clean. Complemented by a yellow Aji sauce, cherry tomatoes, shallots, and clams, there is something so perfect in its fusion of culture. It’s almost as if it is a South American homage to the Thai dishes that we love. This is definitely a do-not-miss at Guilty!
155 Rajadamri Road, Lumpini, Pathumwan
Opening hours: Mon to Sat, Lunch: Noon to 2.30 PM | Dinner: 6 PM to midnight.
Phone: +66 2 431 9473
Email: dining.asia@anantara.com
Facebook: @guiltybangkok
Instagram: @guilty_bangkok