Lauded by many as the world’s food capital, Bangkok offers some of the most adventurous, delicious, and vibrant fare you’ll find anywhere. And this extends far beyond Thai cuisine. In fact, few places embrace international avours quite like our city does--with entire neighbourhoods shaped by the cuisines they celebrate. Nowhere is this more evident than with Japanese food. From Izakayas to Omakase experiences, sushi lovers in this city are spoiled for choice.
I’ll admit, when I don’t know what to eat on the weekend, I often catch myself typing “sushi” into Google Maps without a second thought. As someone who adores all things Japan--the food, the atmosphere, the attention to detail--I’ve made it a point to try everything from the salivatingly good Okinawan plates at Okinawa Kinjo to the fuss-free rolls at Masu Maki. So, imagine my excitement when I found out I’d be sampling the much-talked-about dishes at Akira Back Bangkok--a Korean Japanese restaurant franchise with over 10 locations worldwide.
THE AMBIANCE
Stepping out onto the 37th floor of the Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park, with your ears still humming from the elevator ride, you’re immediately transported into feudal-era Japan. Akira Back Bangkok isn’t just a restaurant --it’s like boarding a majestic Japanese ship straight out of FX’s Emmy-awards-winning series Shogun (2024). The entrance is a dramatic procession of rope arches, curved like temple gates, drawing your gaze down the corridor. Dark mirrored panels and carved wood accents echo both minimalism and luxury. The dim overhead lighting casts dramatic shadows over the interior, which boasts sweeping views of the Bangkok skyline. On your table, stone pots filled with wipes soak up hot water to clean your hands before the meal. Even the reversible chopsticks--one side designed for sharing, the other for personal use--speak volumes about the restaurant’s meticulous attention to detail.
At the helm of this culinary journey is a creative blend of Korean-style Japanese fare—the very type of food Chef Akira Back grew up savouring in his mother’s kitchen. Eschewing a strict izakaya vibe, the menu boldly experiments by fusing influences from across cuisines into entirely new creations, all executed with finesse by Chef Sung Hyun Yoon at the Bangkok branch. In a uniquely personal twist, the walls are adorned with Chef Akira Back’s mother’s artwork--a touching nod to his roots. It’s a reminder that despite the brand’s global reach, with locations in Paris, London, Seoul, and beyond, this space remains intimate, elevated, and a true haven for those who appreciate the finer things in life.
THE CULINARY SELECTION
The culinary adventure began with the standout pizzas. The Tuna pizza (THB 540) features fresh slices of tuna layered over a flaky, thin tortilla. Enhanced by a spread of umami aioli, micro shiso, and finished with a drizzle of white truffle oil, each bite was a delicate balance of flavours. Its counterpart, the Eringi pizza (THB 390), swaps tuna for earthy eringi mushrooms while maintaining that same rich aioli and truffle oil finish--a true vegetarian delight. Next up were the AB tacos (THB 390), a playful Korean Mexican fusion where minced Wagyu is cooked in a rich Bulgogi sauce and paired with roasted tomato ponzu.
The savoury sweetness of the meat, contrasted by the tangy ponzu, created a bite-sized taco that was hearty yet elevated.
An interactive highlight of the meal was the Toro tartare (THB 880). Prepared tableside, the silky, fatty belly meat of tuna is elevated with a touch of wasabi soy and crowned with Oscietra caviar. Served with brioche toast and a palette of colourful condiments—from crispy garlic and chopped chives to pickled daikon and yuzu kosho—watching the dish come together in front of you only adds to its luxurious allure.
After we had savoured their delicious starters, we indulged in the restaurant’s slow-cooked meats. The Wagyu short rib (THB 1,150) is a revelation—48 hours of slow-cooking render the beef melt-in-your-mouth tender, served alongside root vegetables and bathed in a rich braising jus that holds deep, robust flavours. Equally impressive is the Jidori chicken (THB 560), where the term “jidori” emphasises that this is free-range chicken, lovingly prepared with a velvety potato puree and a graceful smattering of teriyaki sauce that elevates a familiar classic.
Finally, it was time for the main attraction: the sushi! The aptly named Brother from another mother (THB 890) is a masterclass in fusion, featuring two distinct types of eels (one freshwater, one saltwater) harmoniously paired with a touch of foie gras to deliver a dish that is both bold and balanced. Another delectable option was the Perfect storm (THB 480)—a tempest of flavours combining shrimp tempura, spicy tuna, and salmon belly Aburi, all tied together by a zesty chipotle mayo that creates a satisfying finish. Foregoing the cocktail menu, I opted for a soothing cup of hot Genmaicha tea instead. Its warm, toasty aroma provided a comforting counterbalance to the flavour-packed dishes and added an authentic touch to the experience.
For dessert, the sweet finale was equally memorable. The Honey yoghurt panna cotta (THB 230), accented with playful pop rocks, delivered a light, refreshing end to the meal. Equally decadent was the Valrhona lava souf é (THB 370)—crafted with Madagascan Manjari chocolate, it was gooey, rich, and well balanced by a scoop of vanilla ice cream.
THE MASALA CHOICE
My pick of the night, the Half baked roll (THB 510), struck the perfect balance of familiarity and indulgence. Among all the rolls we tried, this was one I kept coming back to over and over. Combining salmon, cream cheese, crab tempura, and tobiko, the dish delivered richness, crunch, and a subtle pop of briny sweetness – all in one heavenly bite.
AKIRA BACK BANGKOK
37th Floor, Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park, Sukhumvit Road, Bangkok
Phone: +66 (0) 2 059 5999 | Open daily: 5:30 PM to 11 PM
Instagram: @akirabackbkk