The history of food is filled with unexpected encounters. Along the ancient trade routes, ingredients and culinary traditions travelled far beyond their place of origin, inspiring cooks to experiment with techniques and recipes newly arriving from distant shores.
Over time, these influences became entwined into local food cultures, giving rise to dishes that reflected more than one tradition, and resulting in a pot of melting cultures. Fusion cuisine emerged from this spirit of curiosity and adaptation, and today continues to delight diners with combinations that honour the past while embracing something new.
Few restaurants capture the romance of cultural exchange quite like Akira Back. Founded by the eponymous Korean-American chef and restaurateur, whose name now graces 28 locations around the world, the restaurant reflects a lifetime spent navigating different culinary traditions.
Influenced by his upbringing in the United States and enriched by years of travel, Michelin-starred Chef Akira Back's cooking draws upon a breadth of global inspirations without losing sight of his personal roots. It is a philosophy that resonates strongly with the Thai-Indian community, whose own identity has been shaped by the meeting of cultures across generations.
Perhaps that is why so many find themselves returning to Akira Back time and again. Drawn by the same sense of familiarity and curiosity that defines its cuisine, Masala found ourselves taking a seat once more, ready to experience the restaurant through fresh eyes.
Space: Located on the 37th floor of Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen's Park, Akira Back pairs contemporary interiors with expansive views of the city below.
Stepping out of the lift, guests find themselves between two of Chef Akira Back's ventures, ABar Rooftop and the aforementioned restaurant itself. Inside, a striking timber trunk reception desk immediately catches the eye, complemented by curved wood panelling and warm lighting that brings out the rich, earthy tones reflected in the restaurant's use of natural materials like their custom lava stone napkin trays.
Near the entry, a semi-open kitchen lends glimpses into the action, while the bar displays an impressive collection of wines and spirits awaiting everything from celebratory toasts to leisurely evening pours. Beyond the bar, floor-to-ceiling windows draw Bangkok's skyline into the dining area, turning the city itself into an ever-present guest at the table.
Crowd: The restaurant has been thoughtfully arranged to encourage both intimacy and conviviality, with an assortment of seating configurations nestled throughout the space.
For more private affairs, Akira Back offers four exclusive dining rooms inspired by the understated elegance of Japanese tatami interiors, accommodating groups of up to 14 guests. Whether hosting pre-wedding gatherings, important business discussions, birthday celebrations, or the ever-stylish kitty parties, these rooms offer a setting that is bound to earn brownie points.
Under the stewardship of Chef de Cuisine Sunghyun Yoon, Akira Back's menu traverses an impressive spectrum of flavours, with offerings spanning seafood, premium meats, vegetarian favourites, and plant-based creations.
Chef Yoon brings creativity and precision to each plate, embodying the innovative spirit that has become synonymous with the Akira Back name.
With a skyline view such as this, it seemed only appropriate to begin with something in hand. For our spirited option, the Margarita (THB 375) was tart and wonderfully refreshing, while the Sky Garden (THB 225) mocktail offered a sunnier disposition, blending pineapple and passion fruit.
Soon after, vibrant plates began to arrive adorned with artwork by Young Hee Back, Chef Akira Back's mother, starting with several signatures from the Cold section.
Chief among them was the Tuna Pizza (THB 540), a perennial favourite for good reason. Crisp, paper-thin, and crowned with umami aioli, micro shiso, and white truffle oil.
Its vegetarian counterpart, the Eringi Pizza (THB 390), proved equally gripping, with the earthy mushroom bringing a depth to the familiar combination.
For more familiar Japanese fare, the Crispy Rice (THB 420), topped with Cajun tuna, nori paste, and spicy ponzu aioli, delivered a satisfying play of textures. Those favouring plant-based diets will be pleased to know a vegetarian version featuring eggplant is also available.
From the robata grill, the Lamb Chop (THB 840) exhibited the kitchen's deft hand with fire, a pleasing balance between tenderness and char.
A plate worth doubling orders for was the Tofu Tobanyaki (THB 360), served sizzling with mixed mushrooms, garlic oil, and toban sauce, confirming that meat-free dishes need not play a supporting role.
Among the main courses, the Jidori Chicken (THB 560) emerged as a comforting favourite. Accompanied by potato purée and teriyaki sauce, it felt almost like Akira Back's interpretation of a classic Sunday roast.
The Greenland Halibut (THB 620), meanwhile, delivered delicate, melt-in-the-mouth flakes of fish alongside Japanese mushrooms and a silky soy beurre blanc.
The meal's pleasures extended well beyond its marquee attractions. A simple House Salad (THB 160) offered a crisp interlude between richer courses, while the Corn on the Cob (THB 260) was unexpectedly memorable.
Served with black garlic butter and Parmesan, it flaunted the kitchen's ability to dress humble ingredients through precision, earning a place among our favourite dishes of the evening.
By the time dessert arrived, we were convinced we had no appetite left. This soon proved wildly optimistic.
The AB Apple Harumaki (THB 390) offered caramelised comfort, while the Valrhona Lava Soufflé (THB 430) delivered a velvety indulgence of chocolatey bliss.
The Coconut Mochi Cake (THB 230) emerged as the unexpected charmer of the trio, light and irresistibly moreish to the very last bite.
Of all the dishes we sampled, it was the Eggplant Miso (THB 270) that left the indelible impression.
Served with sweet miso sauce and pickled lotus root, it appeared looking remarkably like a miniature T-bone steak, complete with an intact stem that only enhanced the illusion. Vegan though it may be, nobody seemed interested in categorising it as such. We were too busy reaching for more.
37th Floor, Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen's Park
Sukhumvit Road, Bangkok
Open Daily:
5:30 PM – 11:00 PM
Phone:
+66 (0) 2 059 5999
Instagram:
@akirabackbkk