Just GEORGIAous!

By Shaan Bajaj 

No, I am not referring to the southeastern state in America. Georgia, lies between Asia and Europe, with 95% of its territory within Asia. As a self-proclaimed travel girlie, I was pleasantly surprised by my visit to Georgia earlier this year. It was never on my radar, but it should definitely be on yours!

My experience in Georgia reminded me of my love for exploration and has been my favourite country of the year, especially because it was off the beaten path. I had an authentic local experience and emerged into a different world – a rare feeling in today’s touristy world. I feel like-minded travellers can relate; therefore, there are multiple reasons to entice you to visit Tbilisi, its capital, and other fascinating locations around the country of Georgia.

CULTURE

Georgia’s culture is a very unique blend of Asian and European influences. Due to its geographical location, Georgia was conquered by the Romans, Persians, Arabs, Turks, Mongols, Ottomans and even the Russians in the 19th Century. Resilience, it seems, is woven into the very fabric of their being. As a traveller, visit the following places in Tbilisi to see how the Georgians have managed to rise up from rubble again and again.

HOLY TRINITY CATHEDRAL OF TBILISI

On my way to the Cathedral, a local taxi driver said, “We Georgians are very religious people, faith has really kept us going.” And the Cathedral, built in 2004, is evidence of how devout the people truly are with churches and services across the city.

MEIDAN BAZAAR

The bazaar has been a hub for trade since the 4th century, merchants from East and West would sell their goods to each other. Excitingly, it was even a central stop along the famous Silk Road. Today, the spirit of the bazaar lives on as a cultural bazaar, selling tourists a range of Georgian goods ranging from wine to art.

NARIKALA FORTRESS

Although the fortress itself was closed when I was in Tbilisi, the short hike up the mountain and the view were well worth the visit. Overlooking the city, I could see how the old blended into the new and where history has left its mark.

Where else to go in Georgia?

– Kutaisi – the capital of ancient Georgia possesses the perfect blend of history, nature and culture with caves, rivers and monasteries to visit.
– Mtskheta – one of the oldest cities in Georgia, where you can take in medieval architecture and majestic Svetitskhoveli Cathedral.

ART

– Tato Art Bridge – I accidentally stumbled across this bridge in an attempt to get a photo of the peace bridge, and boy, was I thankful I did! Art lined the walls of the bridge with compelling stories of Georgian history.
– Georgian Museum of Fine Arts – built to house the best artwork Georgia has to offer, with artworks from more than 3,500 artists.
– Street art at Fabrika, Chugureti (Marjanishvili) – during my four days, I visited twice because there was so much to take in!

FOOD

As a vegetarian, I was slightly concerned about what food would be available to me, but fortunately, I had no trouble finding food in Tbilisi. Here are my top three dishes and where to try them:

Khinkali, Georgia’s version of dumplings, comes with a variety of fillings for meat lovers and vegetarians alike. While I was there, I sampled the gooey, cheesy-filled dumplings and meaty mushrooms, both succulent and unexpectedly filling. Try them at Sofia Melnikova’s Fantastic Douqan, a rustic Georgian experience with outdoor and indoor seating. Their prices are on the affordable side, with a menu that covers local and international cuisine, especially a good spot if you are travelling with a big group.

Khachapuri, similar to the Turkish Pide, is a cheese-filled flatbread with an egg on top. It’s a popular street food, and has been around since the 12th century. It’s also been called a cousin of the pizza. It’s bread and cheese, I mean, what’s not to love? Try this delicacy at Mapshalia, which felt like walking into a Georgian nani’s house, where food was on the table in seconds. It was incredibly cosy, and I am sure the aunties that run the place will want to keep feeding you. To truly get a feel of Georgian culture, I would recommend going here.

Lobio is a hearty hug in a bowl, made with beans and served with a local corn bread called mchadi or pita bread. If you are in need of something simple, that is reminiscent of your dadi’s rajma chawl, definitely order this dish.

Go to Cafe Leila, located in old Tbilisi, a stone’s throw away from the Clock Tower. I highly recommend going in the evening and snatching a seat outside. This quant restaurant is also vegetarian-friendly and has an excellent selection of local cuisine for you to enjoy.

WINE

When I first stepped out to explore Tbilisi, one of the first things that caught my eye was a deep purple-coloured ice cream that every second person seemed to be enjoying. It took me a few minutes to find the source, but once I did, I instantly understood how integral wine was because it was a wine-flavoured ice cream. Thus began a personal challenge of trying as many different local wines in the birthplace of wine. Yes, you read that correctly. Georgia is the birthplace of wine, dating back to 6,000-4,000 BCE.

Traditionally, wine was made in clay pots, known as the Qvevri (or Kvevri) method. Delicious grapes are crushed and put into clay pots, before burying them underground for a duration of 5-6 months.

Where to enjoy a glass or two of nectar in Tbilisi:
– 8,000 Vintages – as they house more than 1,000 labels for you to try from.
– Wine Library – for the wine tastings held every Friday and Saturday.
– Karalashvili Wine Cellar – a traditional marani offering a taste of wine from a 600-year-old cellar.

Hot tip: a lot of bars or wine merchants will let you taste a range with generous pours! Helpful for those who were on a budget like I was!

During my next visit, I would make the trek to Khaketi Wine region, home to 70% of Georgia’s wine. Wineries I would visit:
– Shumi Winery – to pay my respects at the birthplace of wine.
– Vakho Oqruashvili Wine Cellar – to taste wine straight from a qvevri.
– TEMI Community Winery – for its award-winning organic qvevri wines that double as a social enterprise, supporting 70 people from different backgrounds and abilities.
– Winery Khareba – to sample wine from the largest wine exporters in Georgia.

Realistically, I would go on a wine tour to visit as many as I can! In other words, drink as much Georgian wine as humanly possible in a short span of time.

MUSIC & NIGHTLIFE

While researching places to go, I was not expecting to find a thriving underground music scene, especially for techno heads.

Head to
– Bassiana – a cornerstone of Tbilisi’s nightlife, and incredibly popular with international and local DJs.
– Khidi – situated under the Vakhushti Bagrationi Bridge, it spans three floors and can accommodate up to 1,200 people.
– Mtkvarze – a former soviet printing house turned club for you to boogie your heart out.

Pre-drink at:
– Fabrika Tbilisi – an industrial soviet sewing factory converted into a courtyard housing bars, live music, restaurants, hostels and a coworking spot. While I visited, they even had a photo-van, which worked much like a traditional photo booth.

ARCHITECTURE

The buildings of Tbilisi are where its history takes centre stage. Just four days were enough to showcase how its past has influenced the way the city has been built, blending architectural elements from East and West. And most recently, from the Soviet Union. If you’re a history geek, this is the country to visit!

– The Clock Tower (and much of old town Tbilisi) – by far, my favourite part of the city. I was enchanted by the colourful joint houses and historical architecture.
– Bridge of Peace – a symbol of Georgian innovation and future prosperity.
– Opera and Ballet Theatre of Tbilisi – right opposite Kvarts Coffee, this striking building pulls you in with its vibrant colours!